Placing hexes climbing reddit. With all of our advances in tech and protection.
Placing hexes climbing reddit. Once you are confident with your placements and the spacing between them, attempt the climb with the gear pre-placed - essentially a sport route. The home of Climbing on reddit. If I am trying things that feel harder I am going to focus on pure speed and ease of placement and will normally skip the hexes. For summer Trad climbing I love tricams and use them frequently, hexes I carry but rarely use. With all of our advances in tech and protection. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Micro cams can be come a crutch and many times nuts are actually more safe. Figure out what works and what doesn't. Funny, we never had trouble placing and removing corded nuts, specifically Chouinard Stoppers from size 5 up, back in the dark ages before wired became ubiquitous on the medium and larger sizes. Don't forget slings and spare locking biners for anchors! I found these hexes on the ground. You'll want at least doubles in hands and fingers for most climbs that feature true crack climbing. I’m new to trad and I am struggling with gear placement, aside from the cams. Been trad climbing for a while now, and have slowly built up a decent trad rack. Nut tool - splurge for the one with the leash. Was wondering what my ideal trad rack would The hexes were a cheap option to double up on my cam sizes and were also great tools for setting up top ropes when I still wanted to lead another climb that would take smaller gear. Learn how to use it. If I am climbing easy trad lines for entertainment purposes I sort of enjoy finding interesting placements, hexes included. Place a hex (okay, fine, a nut) at the apex of a roof or when the angle mellows out to keep the rope running smoothly. As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I suspect it's from earlier then that. You are missing some giant hexes you'll never use though, get on that. I have doubles in thin fingers to 3s, a small set of nuts, and a #4. It's useful to have cams when you're on a pumpy route but you can never be as sure with them as a well placed hex. Set of nuts (black diamond stoppers or dmm wallnuts) possibly also a couple of individual large hexes. 19 votes, 73 comments. I own all four brands, and agree with you that the wire on the Hexcentric and Ultralight Curve Hex is a major hindrance to placing the small to small end of the medium sizes in the cammed position. I've been trad climbing with a full double rack for more than 12 years and tried every kind of harness and gear sling still prefer BD harnesses over anything, including misty mountain, arc'teryx, and 6 gear loop harnesses. A set of nuts, some tricams, and some hexes (bring on the downvotes!). 5, and you may need Tricams or Hexes depending on the rock features of the climb. That gets me up almost anything except Indian In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. Some sort of PAS/anchoring/rappel set up. And yes we are scared of falling. They're not the right pieces for every climb, but damn I have Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. (Although Every new trad leader should start with passive gear. You can get by with a lot of passive pro and depending on the climbing you’re doing you may want weird giant hexes or something (the purple one from Serious question. Then get some cams. When trad climbing you have to consider the system as a whole and it’s ability to protect you and your belayer from 1. I find lots of places to place them, they can be super bomber, and can fill in for when I need doubles of some larger cams. These were fiddly to place for freeclimbing and tended to lift out 303 votes, 90 comments. But this is useful only for the completed anchor system which is based on many I'm an idiot with hexes. Hexes are usually require more fiddling than a cam. Cams can move surprisingly large flakes. Ballnuts are new to me in the last year of owning, but I'm finding I love them. And don't even get Get a full set of nuts, some offsets and a set of hexes for your protection and you'll be able to climb most things. He was an old trad dad, wearing only jorts, just hand jammed his jolly self up using only solid-stem Friends and hexes slung with accessory cord. 5-3. All while talking to my group with a cigarette in his mouth. The only place I don't You may need cams smaller than . Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. This is a good run of hexes. You might be able to get $60 on mountain project shipped, maybe even more. A pair of iron scissors, one blade sharpened with Passive pro to get started, you don't need cams to climb most (any?) easy trad. Here's what you need to know. Your friend is wrong. You need to stiffen up the sling somehow (wrap it in tape) what have you, so you can place the hex without having to manually drop I use hex, and I think cams are better for most situations. I did an "apprenticeship" if you will, climbing relatively short, easy routes only using hexes and wires. So, your hex slung with 7mm cord? You could bivouac off of that. Practice eyeballing placements to minimize incorrect gear selection. The larger sizes it doesn't make much difference. I bought hexes thinking they'd be cheaper and lighter than adding more cams to my rack. On top of that, hexes provide better protection than cams only at a couple climbing areas in the country, and probably even then only on a handful of routes I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). In addition to the gear you use in an indoor wall or at a sport crag, you'll need some more specialist kit to climb a trad route. I have some friends who hate then, but I have gotten good use out of them. Birthday Ridge 5. If sport leading while doing this, you're practicing the mental component of placing gear while on the sharp end. Some of the smaller hexes were originally intended to be slung with 6mm perlon cord (powercord wasn't invented yet) and they worked fine. 5mm holes. This article explains all. Edit: Thank you all for your help! I decided to purchase a set of BD C4's, #. When you are sketched, throw the cam in. you learn a lot about how the rock works, and how to find a good stance to place from. If you go the passive route: I suggest black diamond hexes because i think placing with the wire is easier than using Wild Country. Active and passive placement. Some rock types and Hexes can be persuaded to stick in parallel slots and even in slight flares where there's enough surface texture. If you're placing between bolts on sport routes, take some practice falls. Placing gear is just something completely different than what you're doing when sport climbing. My ritual in this case is to gather flowers from my garden representing anger, bitterness, pain, etc, and have a little talk to them at the end of the garden, then stomp and crumple them, and finally bury in the The curve hexes provide a little bit of camming depending on placement which helps mitigate displacement from rope drag as does clipping a long alpine draw if necessary. Does the ACC do trips there? The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. Alpine draws - keep an eye out on Backcountry or Moosejaw for deals. Why are people still hammering in pitons? I mean isn't it generally accepted as kind of not kosher? There's even a The local climbing guide books would be my first choice for information on this topic but they are often too vague. People recommended hexes vs cams for slippery southern Ontario limestone. Cams are so expensive, yet people buy cams over hexes. To do this you arrange them so the cord rotates (or attempts to With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. I live next to a small crag where I set a TR and do 4x4's or practice lacing up a trad line, I'll take turns placing only cams / wires / tri-cams / hexes etc The kind of stuff you'd never do when you actually go climbing. Pretty proud to have completed my first trad multipitch after being mostly self-taught! Super easy but ready to push grades. The problem with slinged hexes instead of wires is you can't hold the sling and place the hex. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Climb way below your grade until you've got those few dozen pitches under your belt, and really understand how to plug in gear. you also spend a lot of time faffing about at first, going up a size, then down two sizes then back up to the first size. Unfortunately, my wife and I found the hexes just don't bite into the rock as well as nuts, so they walk out much more than nuts or cams. Qualified, experienced and psyched climbing and mountaineering instructor based in Snowdonia, N Wales. It's absolutely fine. Like tricams, hexes are practically obsolete, especially for climbers pushing 5. You can’t climb thousands of feet while placing gear to protect every move or sequence—on easy terrain it’s pretty normal to run it out so much that you are essentially soloing and the gear is only to keep the rope running correctly/keep you from actually falling off the mountain (you’ll probably hit a ledge first anyway 😂). . Work towards doing the climb while placing the gear! I got my first trad rack this year. You could use a Shunt or whatever but I My climbing idol, who I have only met once, climbed this route. Get comfortable. Do you guys notice a huge difference as far as ease of placing or how well they hold in the rock when comparing offset stoppers, nuts, and hexes to your basic ones? Would you choose to use one exclusively over the other or a mix of both? Cheers. What advice would you give a new trad climber? A genuine nugget of wisdom. What size Hexes/Cams should I have in addition to the Wallnuts for DL? Other Notes I have When Brits start climbing we make do with clunky old hexes and have a good old time! I think its important to stick with the passive protection until you really have it sorted and then you can go crazy and go on a spending spree with the cams (because lets face it thats a big investment!). Think I'd get a way with a full set of stoppers, hexes, plus a few cams for the granite? Great, appreciate the advice! Just on my own, reckoned once I got the hang of placing gear I'd look for partners to go in October. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. When I bought my first trad gear many years ago I also bought a tricam set I have never used, despite lots of trad climbing since. It's not just a question of placing the piece; you'll learn to recognize rock quality and stability much better, and those are just as important. From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. 82 votes, 51 comments. I have black diamond stoppers, and I'm looking into wallnuts, also not sure what I want for hexes. They are very useful in some situations, such as mixed climbing, but for the most part theyre just less versatile and harder to place than cams. Practice placing gear while actually climbing, rather than standing on the ground. I’m climbing in the UK, mostly on Peak District gritstone right now but will also be looking to tackle other climbs in Snowdonia, the Lakes and others. Cleaning gear gives you a good chance to understand what was placed where, how it was placed, and when it was placed on the route. I would definitely double and triple up on the most commonly placed nut sizes. Is it safe to use dropped gear? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A pkmnslut • I’d whip Reply reply PetersLittlePiper • 17 votes, 81 comments. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Hexes are far cheaper than cams and there are also places where hexes will work better than cams. I already have a set of DMM wallnuts (#1-11), and am considering getting a set of Hexes or BD Camalots. * You won't place the hexes as you have _a double set of cams_ in the corresponding sizes. I get a 4 pack for <$70 sometimes or you can build them yourself. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. Plus, the more I place them, the better I get at placing them, and the larger array of items I can place while climbing with any given partner. Yep, I dont use hexes or tricams and most of the people i climb with dont use them either. Hey r/climbing! I'm looking to pick up some gear to set up top rope anchors at Devil's Lake, WI next month. I think it is totally regional, where I live we climb trash limestone where everytime you place a cam you should buy a lottery ticket but nuts, hexes and tricams are bomber as long as you don't use a flake. I think the usefulness of hexes is very dependant on where you climb. Welcome to r/climbing 's Daily Discussion Thread, a thread for questions and comments everyone wants to make but don't warrant their own thread. Ultimately I’d like to be doing multi pitch mountaineering A beginner guide to placing hexes and tri cams for protecting trad climbing. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut 105 votes, 89 comments. Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. Built it slow. 26 votes, 18 comments. Now they just stay at home. 20 votes, 62 comments. Welcome to the club. I used them most when I was still doing a lot of winter-mixed climbing, as cams just straight up don't work, and whilst my partner had almost a full set of tri-cams, it was convenient to use the hexes for things like belays where you had more time to get set up properly, and wanted bomber pieces; saving the tri-cams for the bits of the route where placing quickly would matter. 18 votes, 53 comments. And I'll be able to cut down on rack weight for alpine routes, too! Reply [deleted]• Additional Red Camalot 30-52 mm; #4 Rockcentric 30-36 mm Hexes are great for alpine climbing where the weight savings are significant and you may need to leave bail gear to get down. Cutting edge trad climbing sometimes involves placing marginal gear, usually backed up with better gear below. Overall, I'm glad I have some hexes on my rack. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. I'm torn between rockcentrics,and torque nuts, anyone have preferences? Climbing Sports comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment [deleted]• How to resling stoppers and hexes? I dug up a lot of old forum posts on what cord to use (I've got 5mm Titan cord) and to use a triple fisherman's knot, but the thing I just freaking can't figure out is how to get the damn cord through the stoppers and hexes. it's dangerous. Keep the nuts and the nut tool, add alpine draws and quickdraws and slings, and watch mountain project or sales to look for cams somewhere around $40 each. 1. Good luck! Hit me with other "tricks of the trade" that you've picked up along the way. Hi guys, I've been climbing sport for a long time and am interested in getting a trad rack. Nuts/hexes - I don't own any hexes personally but they're a favorite to some. it does mean that you get way Now, winter climbing, when the places you'd normally place a cam get iced up, then hexes are the solution, hammer one in, and it's probably going to hold a fall if you're lucky. But then you got 1. Top end would be a rack of new totems and a set of wires, 719USD total. Normal VS Offset trad gear. A common alternative is SERENE - (S)trong, (E)qualised, (R)edundant, (E)fficient and have (N)o- (E)xtension. All are welcome, those who practice witchcraft and those who wish to learn. I would perhaps recommend that you practice placing nuts and hold off buying micro cams - unless you feel that the routes warrant it. From my research, my recommendation is getting good at placing passive gear like hexes, nuts, and tricams. X4 for the 3 small ones and C4 for the rest. 5K votes, 38 comments. Have a question about what color carabiner speaks to your soul? Want to talk some smack about pebble wrestlers? Wondering how chalk buckets work? Really proud of that thing you did? Just discover a meme older than most of our I basically climb everywhere in the western US from the valley to the front range, MT alpine to Cochise, Devil's tower to Joshua tree, Smith Rock to Enchanted Rock in TX and everywhere in between. /unjerk 177 votes, 35 comments. For extra points, place your nuts (and hexes) in the wider There is some range in camming ability for hexes but it isn't nearly as reassuring to climb above a loose one, especially when you hear it move out of its original spot. be aware of placing limitations of those rigid stemmed friends! (ie loading the stem over an edge will probably break it) The nuts look really good, maybe resling the hexes and other cams but they look ok. Something that might narrow down the date is to look when Chouinard hexes were drilled for 5. That being said, if you're good at placing your nuts and hexes, there's lots of opportunity if you're psyched. There are two really good options to hexes, one is the DMM Torque Nuts and the other is Wild Country Everyone from beginners to the sport, to experts will find these instructional videos useful for learning and polishing up on essential skills. But on top of that, even with proper slinging of a wired hex, in my own experience it still somehow ends up getting loose. Cams, tricams, nuts, hexes, ice screws. Set of nuts, set of offsets, 3 hexes, 0. They can be placed 1. In rock-climbing, a pretty common acronym for teaching anchors is ERNEST - anchor systems must be (E)qualised, (R)edundant, have (N)o- (E)xtension, (S)trong, and (T)imely. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. So, I’ve got two sets of nuts, a set of hexes and four cams ranging from smallish to largish. Hexes and curses leave me stuck in negative emotions, while a ritual to “let them go” allows me to make room for peace and ease. Penumbral Severance. I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! 911 votes, 144 comments. Very overwhelmed on where to start. In this video, Dave Rudkin takes a look at the Placing a hex takes more time, sometimes is harder to create a great placement using only one hand, also harder for second to remove, and A beginner guide to placing hexes and tri cams for protecting trad climbing. And you can climb a lot higher above that gear that you think. trueAs with all magic in Fairy Chess, curses are about using symbolism and theatrics to hijack reality's inherent "autocorrect". OP is a gumby and hasn't climbed enough to see why people prefer cam over hex. "A standard rack" is often used to describe the protection requirements. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977. Keep in mind that many wired stoppers are only rated to 5-6 kn. It's the same diameter as the old stuff, but I can't get it through the holes. Any advice on minimum needs? Brands to avoid? Thanks! 51 votes, 73 comments. 2, Bon Echo (First recorded technical climb in Ontario) Share Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment ilmmad • My rack is slowly coming together but right now I am borrowing gear when I lead from my fellow climbers. Talk with climbers in your local area to see what they use. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 5mm Gemini tech cord. Instructing, Coaching, Guiding and Approved Mountain Training Course Provider. I'd suggest selling the hexes. Put the hexes in when you have a reasonable stance. Your hexes are 1974 or later and before the 5. 1 - 5 BD cams. r/Witchcraft is a welcoming and inclusive space in which to share knowledge, discuss, ask questions, and further the progression of witchcraft as well as the individual's path. 10 and harder as stances that allow one to use both hands to place hexes or tricams become more rare. rffatolbisbptyiyhlczpgddsayahtzeazfysntgezmqwmwqohmlln