What length sling for quad anchor reddit. The knots are in the wrong place.

What length sling for quad anchor reddit. I was out doing a private class with a guide and we were talking about something when I said, “Oh yeah, and maybe you could bring a quad for that. Is longer better, more versatile? What lengths and how many slings do you carry on your saddle? When making anchors my go to when possible is to girth hitch my anchor points and then build with a quad or equalette depending on how much extension I need. One 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. You can make each end a different length to make rappelling easier. the ‘double-double’): The YouTuber suggested possibly using two You should always have a sling just in case so you can manufacture something more appropriate if needed. Fold your cordelette in half and secure the two loops on one end to the master point (small locking carabiner) of your first quad or sliding X. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Yes, two seperate slings is a far stronger system, but requires both anchor bolts to be at the same height to properly distribute the load on two equal length slings, which is not always the case. The horizontal spacing between anchor points and the length of slings that you use to connect the points are critical in creating a reliable anchor. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. The master point in the anchor pictured isn’t redundant, which is probably why the quad or pre equalized is preferred. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. I don't want a knot that reduces the strength of the rope catching a shock load if a bolt fails. it all depends on the route I am climbing and how the anchors are The Quad is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. I started carrying a 180cm (triple length) dyneema sling last season and it’s my new favorite - it’s just always exactly the right length for anything single/doubled/tripled/quadrupled and super flexible. Me and my partner generally make a sliding X with a double length sling and clove-hitch or PAS into a locker on the master point. Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Also, is this method redundant enough while using one 10mm sling? If this is the case then the quad anchor is not necessary that's not to say its wrong but you can accomplish the same perfectly safe and redundant anchor making anchor draws out of locking carabiners and shoulder length slings. If the bolt or carabineer break you've got too much length between the knot and the center of the anchor. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. Also, the locking Sep 1, 2023 · Although double-length slings are most commonly used to extend pieces of protection while on lead to reduce rope drag, quadruple or even longer slings are sometimes used to equalize multiple protection pieces into a secure anchor. Very versatile. Make sure you know what the triangle of death is before considering to use quick draws for anchors. I bought 2 d shaped lockers for the bolts and 2 hms lockers for the rope side. a. Better to have an anchor that's a little big than not have enough material. But 5mm in most cases is too thin, go for a double length dyneema sling or try to find some 6 or 7mm. It also makes for an easy way to to extend my Aug 4, 2021 · The quad anchor is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. Usually just do 3 piece (4 if you count upward pull piece) with a fig. Reply tinyOnion • Additional comment actions You would use limiter knots to lessen the shock load caused by the extension from one piece failing in that configuration. Not too short, not too long, works on horizontal bolts and with a little adjusting, vertically offset ice screws. trueWould that kind of gear have any application to a multipitch setting? I know some people choose to build 3-piece anchors, or quads, whatever, out of cordalette rather than a sling or webbing. Anchor yourself to a tree or crack with a long sling or length of rope before approaching the cliff edge to set up a toprope. I can tie two bolts together with a double length sling in literally seconds, and achieve zero extension. Typically my PAS will be in use to attach me to the anchor as I set up, and then I'll want it free again at the next anchor, so I don't really want it used as part of the rappel. Keep slack out of your static anchors. a Redditor directed me to the HowNotToHighline YouTube channel. If it's a larger group, and/or the group is climbing above limit, a quad made from two double length slings is nice to have. Aaaand go enroll in a top rope anchor course. It's a trade-off; the sliding X with limiter knots (or the equalette, or quad equalette) will provide better equalization of forces between each piece (more so with the equalette/quad than sliding X with a sling, since carabiners don't float as freely in the sliding X as One disadvantage of the quad vs clipping directly into a bolt is that it puts you much lower below the bolts, especially if you are using a double length sling. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. I prefer something I always knew to be called the "electricians coil". 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Cowtail the sling (120cm', or whatever length you prefer)to yourself via belay loop and attach the carabiner to the anchor point. It’s more efficient to build a pre-equalized anchor (with the same sling pictured) using an overhand or figure eight instead of tying two overhands on each side of your master point. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. Multipitch = quad with a quad length dyneema sling and more biners. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. Here you go, an Amga video demonstrating a quad anchor. Should I get an actual dedicated anchor system or use alpine draws to reduce amount of gear? Some sort of top-rope anchor system Question: Do a quad or just a few slings? Carabiners for top-rope anchors. 8 or a quad anchor if its bolted. What if you don't have that gear with you? Here's an alternative: Simply use a pair of 120 cm slings. com Oct 29, 2023 · Length: I would go with 240cm sling or cord. jg trueI have some 6mm cord leftover from my quad anchor, can I use it to make a PAS? May 3, 2018 · From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. Dec 16, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I even add a single wire gate onto the quad to clip into quickly when reaching the anchor in case someone wants to lead it and the TR gets pulled down. Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my properties, and recreational tree climbing. Learn how to use the self-equalizing 'quad anchor' for climbing I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. In researching anchor designs, pros, cons, etc. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. Double the runner and get the stitching positioned towards the end before tying the first of two over-hand knots. For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. I'd get 3 locking carabiners (2 for top, one for bottom), and one non-locking (for bottom). There I found a quad easier and faster to setup than getting the right length with draws. Oct 15, 2021 · The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to pitch. Never going back to cord for anchors. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema Quad length dyneema slings. 305 votes, 96 comments. Dec 1, 2023 · When I build a quad, I often use two bolts for anchor points, a quad length (240cm) sewn sling, two non-lockers for the legs, and lockers for the master point. I love quad anchors. For multi-pitch trad cordalettes, 7mm cord is pretty standard (17-22ft depending on preference). The climber uses a clove hitch on a single locker to anchor himself, and non locking biners for the anchors itself. Depends on the route and the rack. I'd get a couple of double length slings, maybe 3, for bolted anchor building. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. 6 slings, 6 alpines, 2 draws, and 2 double length slings = 16 extensions in a single pitch. With two bolts, equalization is a low priority and sliding-xes actually equalize pretty poorly. And I don't want a bulky knot preventing the rope from equalizing. By tying load limiter knots into the quad, at least 2 parts of the sling would need to simultaneously fail for the anchor to fail. Probably overkill especially if you're carrying a cordalette and won't need slings at the anchor. A couple small lockers for the bolts and a big locker and matching oval non locker for master point is what I use if I want a super bomber top rope with said tied off sling. Clip the doubled ends into your protection carabiners. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic Just use a sling or two, or a quad, or a cordelette, or an equalette, or a couple sliding X'swhatever floats yer boat. Then 6 more quickdraws and yer good! Reply Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. total cost for the locker and the sling was maybe $15? for building the anchor it depends on the route I am climbing but I have and use everything from two quick draws to a quad. As others have said. You need a triple-length Dyneema sling rather than the double you are using. I wanted to get the communities thoughts on this anchor system I use to clean sport routes. Dynema is amazing. I was shown to make a self-equalizing anchor (with the x) using a sling and 4 locking carabiners, and have done that since. However, I find myself more and more bringing a quad length dynema sling for this purpose instead of cordellette tied into a quad because it's lighter and less bulky. For alpine I'll sometimes take a 6mm one but it is substantially weaker. This was built from a 120cm, or double length, Dyneema runner with two overhand knots that became welded and were left in place for the life of the sling. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. When I made this same exact decision, I went with a 240cm dyneema sling. In fact, tied with overhands, the quad is best For example I don't usually bring enough double length slings that I want to use two of them up at a bolt anchor. For example, with 2 slings instead of 1, with a cordette in a quad instead of a sling, or just 2 quickdraws (is the lase one somehow unsafe?) I'm curious about . Or if you climb in a gym and think the workers are knowledgeable ask them what a good length would be for your area (careful with that though sometimes gyms get really good well rounded climbers working there sometimes they get dummies). I generally do it with a single length sling. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more options as to where you could climb. If you want a cordelette for multi-pitch, I'd recommend 7mm X 20 ft. No it's not. But using your rope or PAS as the anchor is NG if you're leading in blocks, or worried about escaping the belay in a crisis. And yes we are scared of falling. Also, most moderates in Squamish have bolted anchors and quads/equalettes etc are just overkill. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? For single pitch sport, I usually do a sliding x on a dyneema sling with 3 lockers. Yes I said that right). 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. 1. Nov 2, 2017 · These are often called “double length” slings as they are twice as long as your standard “shoulder length” sling. We each carried one of these and also used them for all of our anchor building (natural anchors usually). If you really want to equalize two bolts try the Quad. Learn how to make a three-piece trad anchor using a quad or traditional overhand-knot technique. Nice and simple. Two Bolts One Sling I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I Given a standard 60cm sling for a two-piece Sliding X, or a 120cm sling for a three-piece, what kind of additional force is generated, if any, on the anchor due to the extension in the system when one piece fails? How far off-axis does loading need to be in order to weight a single leg of a cordelette, in both a two and three-piece anchor? Quads without knots violates the "redundancy" priciniple of SERENE anchors If you built a quad anchor without knots, and any part of the single was cut, the entire anchor would fail. ” He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). Figure eights a little easier to untie than two oberhands, too. 5 tech cord but more versatile. The home of Climbing on reddit. My prusiks are 6mm nylon. You'd also be well served to learn about the realities of equalization (it's mostly a myth), which is why I made an emphasis on placing bomber gear. At most ill do 6 quickdraws, 6 alpine draws, 6 slings, and a double length sling. I think 180 cm is about the sweet spot. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! For double length slings (4'), anchor webbing and cordelette, many folks use a twisted rack. It's the old adage about giving a man a fish, or teaching a man to fish. Dec 7, 2023 · The quad is ubiquitous by now, but it is almost always tied with overhands serving as the limiter knots. There is a way to set you anchor after a lead as a quad anchor and then use the quad as a tether when you clean, but this can sometimes lead to difficult positions compared to a traditional Personal anchor system. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). Even with a 100ft piece of static I still use a cordellete or slings sometimes too. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket (s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. Learn how to build a quad anchor, along with some of its primary uses. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, For placements this far apart, you want quad length or longer cordelette to reduce the angle spanned between the widest piece and minimize multiplying the forces in the load direction. Long enough for most gear anchors used single or v-clove style. The two The simple overhand isn't likely to unroll on a standard quad anchor, or a 3 piece equalized trad anchor, assuming everything is dressed properly. If the anchor is two or three pieces, just use a girth hitch master point on a sling and move on with your life. 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Cleaning: no difference. Usually if I want equalization I just use a quad instead of the X with stoppers and if I don't have a sling with length then it's rope anchor or girth hitch. The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces How to build a trad anchor Not all belay stances are bolted. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Learn how to choose the type you need. Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. And learn the clove hitch. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. Additionally, quads are commonly tied with a 240cm sling, aka a quad length. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. May 31, 2021 · To make this anchor, fold a quad length (240cm) pre-sewn sling in half and tie both strands in an overhand knot about 6 inches from each doubled end. edit: here is another discussion about it with a bunch of different opinions. If you're only going to be at 2 bolt sport anchors, some people make a quad out of a 240 mm Dyneema sling. Jun 7, 2024 · What's the best sling length? For me, the 120 cm is a bit too short. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. Was wondering if using the girth hitch is fine or if looping the sling around the anchor and tieing each loop end together with a figure 8 is materially stronger? I recently started climbing outdoors. Aug 18, 2019 · Double-length slings can be useful for equalizing anchors if the situation warrants, and are the perfect length to use as personal tether to a climbing or rappel anchor if you do not use a personal anchor system instead. This is how it looks in action The Gear you need Like I said: You will need four locking carabiners and one double-length sling (48″ or 120cm). The sling probably wouldn't break, but the impact to your body would hurt like hell. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. Clip both bolts, tie a figure-eight on a bight, clove myself with a locker on the shelf (both loops between bolts and the knot) and then setup the reverso in guide mode on the figure-eight. Sep 6, 2024 · In 2017 I started calling a material efficient version of the Quad anchor a “Mini-Quad”. I can use a double length sling for any number of things on a multipitch while a cordallete is generally going to be used almost exclusively for anchoring so using a cord seems like good conservation of pro to me. These are incredibly hard to untie. I prefer keeping the double fisherman's outside of the middle. If I'm setting up a top rope on top of a sport route, it's a pretty good solution. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. pull rope and belay from top shelf. Just climbed with a guy who clove hitched a 'biner as master point, threw in a clove at each piece and said it was bombdigs. Bulkier than 5. i use this one as a “normal” 2 or 3 piece anchor The problem with learning to tie a single type of anchor such as your pre-tied quad is that you lack the fundamentals to adapt to a different scenario (in this case, your need to extend the anchor) efficiently. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. Method two is using two quickdraws and double backing them (clipping them in opposite directions) to yourself and the anchor. Any reason I shouldn't use this system? In my mind it makes for an easy and redundant system that has advantages over just using the sling without the bunny ears. This is because the amount of force applied to each anchor point depends on the angle formed by the slings coming together. The knots are in the wrong place. Reply Oct 22, 2017 · Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? I usually use a quad or a sliding x with limiters made from 7 mm cord, but the slings are more compact, and I'm curious. If you're going to toprope anchor only, it might be better to get a length of 10mm static line. The only place o can see their functionality is in multipitch sport where you want a sound anchor to hang and belay off of. It's a double length sling that I have bunny ears tied into the end to make redundant and I girth hitch into my harness. In leading, that is definitely a big anchor, but I personally don’t really ever use a quad when leading/on multi pitch. I recommend a carrying double-length sling or a pre-built quad for multi pitch sport. This name doesn’t come from the anchor style, but instead because it is four times longer than a shoulder length sling (60cm). k. Pull the sling through your hard points and bring each end together in front of you. One deep rabbit-hole later I’m emerging with questions about two possible anchor designs which recognize knots in dyneema slings = 50% reduction in strength and thus seek to eliminate them: Anchor #1 (a. ). As far as the specifications for building a quad or any anchor for that matter its better to go thicker than thinner. This is just like setting a two bolt anchor except with your harness at the master point. 15 votes, 19 comments. Ive seen others use 3 or more but i prefer using a The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is coming up from, as long as the route doesn’t wander. I just have a pre rigged sling on my rack where I just have to clip the bolts and have a bomber anchor with minimal extension. Edit: Can the anonymous AMGA Safety Captains explain the votes? Edit 2: This is if there is no sharp rock in the vicinity, and I use newer gear. I’ll use draws or slings, depending on the situation, or just clove-hitch with the rope itself. If rigging a quad here, you will need a 120 cm sling or two 60 cm slings in parallel. Fold the sling in half so you have a total of four strands Jul 6, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I use a double length sling and one locker for my PAS (it also incorporates my Belay device to extend the rappel and for redundancy at the anchor. I usually use double length slings (120cm/48") instead of single length (60cm/24") for bolted anchors. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. Something between 30 and 60 ft. -1 quad length dyneema sling - pre-tied as a quad (adjust as needed for your anchor) -1 triple length dyneema sling. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. For a lot of folks, learning how to build basic anchors off of installed anchor hardware comes first (eg quad, master point), as well as learning how to equalize two trees with a static line. However I've seen people make their anchor many other different ways. See full list on climbing. It can work if the bolts are very close together and you use a small diameter sling, like 8 mm. You could also girth the sling to your harness and tie an overhand to adjust the length. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). For bolted anchors, for a while I've been using a cordelette or double length sling tied as a quad or equalette, which is generally overkill, but can be useful on hanging belays. I use a sling and a locking carabiner. Accommodates weirdly spaced bolts. Even if it does Thread it through your tie in points, then tie an overhand. An additional and in my opinion slightly better anchor for 2 bolts is the quad. At least one person has told me they carry this in a 20ft length for this purpose, and do all of their anchor building with it. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. untie and prep the rap while belaying the second. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. setup an anchor with a single or double length sling (dealers choice on type: I generally prefer a double length sling girth hitched to a quad) go indirect to the lower shelf, clean draw on left bolt. Maybe a quadruple length sling if you want to build the quad anchor. I'm a beginner sport climber though, so weight is not really an issue for me at this stage. I will generally knot a power point in a double length sling or use two slings if the bolts are pretty symmetric. They make things super easy. gjmyf msvhiga ftwsq qrtfze fvgowzy rkgrutf wzyrl zqb uvqu jcwhdx

26th Apr 2024