Top rope auto belay accident. The climbing centre's instagram page reported 3 days ago that it was auto belay failure, and they've removed all auto belays and will never use them again in that centre. In my haste I neglected to check anything. Jun 1, 2021 · Choose a gym that offers “auto belaying” since it’s a popular and safer type of indoor solo climbing. Got the rope in place, showed everyone how it worked, showed them all the safety steps, you put this here, you put that there, you lean back like this and then you clip the belay device into your harness. My mind was on a lot of things all the same time and this was a last-minute decision to come and do some auto belaying, so I came with my husband and we probably spent in total – until the accident – about an hour of constant climbing and I was tired. Putting the 'biner through both the leg loop and the waist loop would tri-load the 'biner, and placing it only through the waist loop could risk a back injury. Auto Belay, Top Rope, and Lead Assessments are pass/fail assessments administered by Triangle Rock Club Staff. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. Sep 23, 2016 · One of the main elements in the auto belay set-up that is different from regular top rope climbing, is the absence of a partner. In 2018, a 57-year-old climber has died after falling at the Quay Climbing Centre, the largest gym in South West England. 5. The day of my accident was really busy, really, really busy. In the auto belay scenario you lack an extra set of eyes. Jan 24, 2023 · You'll likely see them in most, if not all, indoor rock climbing gyms with top-rope walls. Certification: Top Rope Belay All top rope climbers/belayers must be certified by Edgeworks. Or they do multiple routes in a row, unclip for a short break and forget to clip back in. When the climber falls or leans back to descend, the auto belay is supposed to smoothly lower the climber to the ground. There are different variations of rope climbing. For a gym, especially top-rope, new climbers tying the wrong knot or not finishing it up might be an even bigger safety concern though. She's okay now but our gym is closed all year because of it. Oct 2, 2022 · Like mock lead climbing, the best way to practice lead belaying is to have the climber still attached to a top rope, meaning that you will need a third person. Don’t be I usually don't share such stories that people send to me, but maybe like seeing a car crash makes people slow down, seeing this will be a good reminder to take belaying seriously. Jan 22, 2025 · Climbing Coach Recovering After Failing to Clip into Auto Belay Hector Diffut, 26, fell 30 feet from the top of an indoor wall after forgetting to clip into the auto belay. We set and forerun on the rope and return the auto-belay to the bottom when the route is completely finished. What was surprising from Schoffl et al’s study on indoor climbing injuries was the high incidence of injuries while top roping (23%), usually considered a fairly safe form of climbing. As the climber moves upwards, the belayer takes out slack through their belay device so that if the climber falls, the belayer can Jun 2, 2023 · An auto belay barrier designed by Neon, in CityRock Climbing Gym. Mar 1, 2023 · Effective March 1, 2023 As climbing evolves, so do the technologies, techniques, and best practices we use to mitigate the risk of our sport. The highest certified guy who is my instructor told me they have more accidents in the bouldering areas then they do with auto-belay and other "standard" climbing accidents combined. " This month, we cover an increasingly common gym accident involving an auto belay; and the risk of rock fall at outdoor crags. To the point where last time I tried I just had to climb down as I couldn’t Hi all, So I have read through a bunch of other threads on here about choosing a belay device, but I haven't found one that answers all of my questions yet. Auto belay devices have an internal automatic locking mechanism that catches your weight upon a fall. I did a course on top rope, auto belay and bouldering and during the course I was able to rappel down but since then I’ve been getting more and more anxious when it comes to getting down. At the top of the wall, the lanyard connects to a large circular gadget that contains the automated belay mechanism. Oct 12, 2020 · Auto belays are a great way to get in lots of laps on a climb without forcing your friend or climbing partner to belay you over and over, or just a great way to work on top rope routes if you’re climbing alone. No buddy check and people just forget to clip in. The device enables a climber to ascend indoor routes on a top rope but without the need for a human belaying partner. Smith Rock - warning - top rope belay error! The primary purpose of these experience reports and the Annual Report of Accidents in North American Mountaineering is to aid in the prevention of accidents. Set up above a particular route, the auto-belay automatically takes in slack as you move up. . But before learning about each method, let’s Climbers usually race up the holds as fast as they can , touch a sensor at the end and push off the wall, while the auto-belay slowly lowers them. Our head instructor had a friend of hers die from a belay accident many years ago and she absolutely took belaying as serious as she could and made sure every student worker she trained knew how to belay effectively and safely regardless of the conditions outdoors. Most of the accidents have happened when climbers were well into their climbing session. The Role of a Human Belayer In top-rope climbing, the climbing rope extends from your climbing harness, passes inside an anchor at the summit, and ends back at the belayer’s hands. Apr 28, 2025 · Belaying a climber on toprope—where the rope runs from the belay device up through an anchor at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness—is as straightforward as it gets. Dec 4, 2022 · What’s Top-Rope Climbing? Top rope climbing, or top roping, is a style of climbing where the climber ties into the end of the rope, which then threads through top rope anchors at the top of the climb and back down to a belayer at the bottom of the climbing route. The majority of climbing facilities worldwide now use auto belays. What are Vertical World’s requirements for passing the Belay Test? A top-rope Belay Check must be passed prior to use of any top-rope or auto-belay systems at Vertical World (VW). In top-rope and lead belaying, we constantly check each other’s knots. In order to top-rope in our gym, you will need a harness, climbing shoes, and an assisted braking device (ABD) style belay device to belay with. I hope this post isn't too redundant. How is it possible to go up without having a rope attached to you? Wouldn't you notice it? Whenever I go on the autobelay I check that I'm still attached in the beginning, at least once on the way up and May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Effective March 1, 2023, all Edgeworks locations will adopt an Assisted-Braking Device (ABD) policy for all top rope and lead belaying in the gym. Kids age 14-15 may belay with top ropes ONLY with an adult who has passed our skills check actively backing up their brake hand and monitoring the belay. Mar 21, 2024 · Before you get your top-rope belay certification, make sure you know these 10 essential things to ensure a safe and successful climbing experience. Jun 29, 2025 · An auto belay climbing route is a type of route that allows climbers who may not have a climbing partner to climb top rope style routes. In late 2022, a commissioned study conducted by Prof. Why do so many people not like auto-belays in gyms? Personally find them super convenient for training. Auto belay is perfect for any solo gymgoer who wants to get stronger. The minimum age for the Belay-Check is 14. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). Nov 29, 2019 · A new video released by The Climbing Academy (TCA) Glasgow highlights a worrying trend in indoor climbing accidents: people are forgetting to clip into the auto belay tape and are effectively soloing A climber who falls will be held by the rope at the point of the fall, and can then either resume their climb or have the belayer lower them down in a controlled manner to the base of the climb. May 31, 2025 · Climbing Rope Lawsuit Trueblue Belay Lawsuit Get A Free Perfect Descent Auto Belay Recall Lawsuit Evaluation With Our Lawyers Time is limited to pursue legal action for injuries caused by defective Perfect Descent Auto Belay devices. This video is about best practices when using an auto belay device. Creating safety around auto belay use in indoor climbing gyms starts with understanding why accidents happen at all. These assessments are used to evaluate the competency of participants prior to accessing Auto Belay, Top Rope, and/or Leading in the gym. I tested it to see if it holds up to its claim as the "safest Hey Climbers! I’m a fairly new climber deciding to take up the sport to improve my upper body and tackle a fear of heights. Jan 25, 2023 · Your monthly dose of climbing accident analysis from the editors of "Accidents in North American Climbing. At my university gym, one of the wall employees was getting some late night crag action on an autobelay. In trad nearly half of all accidents were gear failure. Jon Heshka of Thompson Rivers University titled “ Understanding Climber Behaviour in Climbing Gyms ” sheds light on climbers’ behavior and attitudes The Chesterfield location is the newest of the Upper Limits locations, and offers an expansive top-out bouldering area with a unique cave feature, and a 25-foot top-rope wall. Learn more about belaying accidents, rappelling accidents, trad anchor accidents, and more —and what NB: If you get to the top of the belay and you have to yank the webbing to make it retract fully, tell the staff. Bouldering injuries were primarily due to falls on the mat. These accidents are so common - a woman fell in our gym as well just a couple of weeks ago due to failing to clip in (luckily only minor injuries), and I really struggle to understand it. Currently, only one device Feb 7, 2024 · Most auto-belay accidents happen because individuals fail to completely clip into the device or forget to clip in entirely. Jan 4, 2024 · Top rope climbing is a beginner-friendly style of climbing where the rope runs from the climber's harness up to an anchor system at the top of the route and back down to the belayer on the ground. Checking your systems is an easy and critical part of preventing the worst; the hard part is doing it each and every single time you approach the wall. Feb 23, 2024 · A 22-year-old climber fell 50 feet after forgetting to clip into the belay device at the bottom of the climb in a Polish gym. Most top rope accidents that we do see are lowering accidents. Emergency services were called to Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym in St. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber… Auto belay "TruBlue Speed" auto-belay fixed at the top of an indoor climbing route An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. The auto belay systems remove the need for a belay partner entirely. wait, is it too late to do those last two steps in a different order? Feb 1, 2022 · Transitioning from top roping to lead climbing can be a big challenge. Sep 27, 2023 · Vertical World and C3 Manufacturing recently agreed to pay a climber $6 million, one of the largest settlements in the climbing gym industry’s history, following an auto belay accident. (The precise circumstances of the June 12 accident at Ascent Studio Climbing & Fitness are still unknown. I am grateful for her training. In September, after a four year long legal battle over an auto belay accident, Vertical World publicly announced a shocking $6m settlement. In this case, clipping into a pre-tied knot with a carabiner leave a lot less space for mistakes. Auto belaying devices are fixed at the top of the artificial wall. More Information and recommendations: https://alpenverein. an auto belay device provides climbers with a safe, simple, and accessible option for climbing routes that would usually require a rope, without the need for a See a fair amount of anti auto-belay comments. Mar 4, 2022 · Self-belay systems are helpful because they allow you to top rope without requiring a belayer. We break it down with this guide to belaying and climbing on the sharp end. This creates a continuous loop that protects the climber in case of a fall. Oct 25, 2021 · In reply to Wire Shark: The 'SafeWork' mentioned in the article is a government department in NSW investigating the incident. Experienced climber Sam talks about the moment she fell after climbing on auto belay without clipping. Feb 8, 2024 · Climbing can be a deadly sport, but most accidents are preventable with experience and good judgment. Top-rope soloing is an integral part of modern climbing. In this article, we’ll walk you through what an auto belay is and if it’s safe. Odds of that happening? Nearly impossible odds, but in climbing we need to account for the unexpected and use stringent safety measures including double checking that our belay device is locked on. Seeing auto-belay sections closed is a sign of good safety practice. However, the most serious incidents reported in indoor climbing gyms — death, becoming paralyzed, and other severe forms of bodily harm — tend to happen on ropes and auto-belays. UIAA-approved harness worn above hip bones and doubled back when required. Building an outdoor climbing wall. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. If you clip in with a carabiner, you should always use the belay loop, and never leg and waist loops. Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. If you’ve successfully made it to the top of a route, auto-belays will slowly lower you to the ground; all you need to do is lean back as if Nov 22, 2021 · What is auto belay device? Join Climbing Enter the auto-belay, a specialized device common in many gyms that takes the place of a real live person on the other end of the rope. Auto-belays are easy to learn to use, provide freedom by not requiring you to climb with a partner, allow for endurance training, and reduce the amount of specialized training required. Jun 17, 2021 · Fatal accidents at climbing gyms are rare, with only a few in North America in the last decade. Scary stuff Oct 21, 2021 · The Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym has confirmed that the failure of a special climbing device, called an autobelay, caused a man to fall to his death. A cautionary tale to all climbers, that it could happen to anyone. So this crazy thing happened to me while speed climbing. Customers are not allowed to rehearse, practice belay techniques, or climb prior to taking the belay test. Most auto-belay accidents are the result of individuals failing to completely clip into the device, or forgetting to clip in entirely. Mar 4, 2025 · The device is mounted to a fixed position at the top of the route. We first responded by removing our Perfect Descent auto belays (Perfect Descent was a defendant in Jan 15, 2024 · And almost all of these injuries are less serious than injuries from climbing on top rope, lead, or auto belay. Climbers on indoor climbing walls can use mechanical auto belay devices to top rope alone. If you do not pass Surprised to see anchor failure be the most common top rope cause of accidents, with belay failure way lower down. In saying that, New Zealand has different "standards" in top roping. de/38335 Jun 29, 2022 · Can auto belay fail? Though auto belay accidents happen every year, deaths are uncommon. Fig. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore Belay Certification Cornell affiliation is required for access, and lessons are available for those who seek affiliation. Oct 29, 2018 · Most of the injuries in lead and top-rope climbing were due to belaying mistakes at 10 cases out of 23 lead/top rope climbing accidents logged. That's why in most German gyms you're (theoretically) not allowed to use Auto-Belays on Jul 11, 2023 · This accident had a happy ending and contained a powerful lesson. Top Rope: Shown in the photo above, top rope climbing requires prior knowledge and experience of the follow through figure 8 knot and the GriGri belay device, which are attached to all top ropes in our facilities. She broke both femurs and her hips. Top Rope and Lead Belay tests must be taken at the start of your visit, and can be requested at check-in. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and IFMGA/AMGA guide Jason Antin are back to provide an accident analysis and give you some quick tips on how to mitigate risk when top-rope soloing. Feb 13, 2025 · The Prescription—Video Analysis Top-rope soloing is becoming increasingly popular. The use of auto belays has been a hotly debated topic in the indoor climbing industry for the last 10 years. Jun 21, 2021 · The innocent lapses in attention that lead to auto-belay accidents are also to blame for top-rope and lead climbers who forget to finish their tie-in knots—mistakes with similarly dire consequences. The belayer’s brake hand must remain in constant control of the brake strand of the rope. Top Rope Belay certifications will be issued to those who meet the following requirements: AGE and GEAR REQUIREMENTS Must be 14 years of age or older. This lawsuit really amped up the conversation. I'd be interested to see some numbers on auto belays versus bouldering accidents. If a climbing rope fails to retract into the auto belay device, there will be a lot of slack in the rope as a climber ascends. ). 3 Methods Of Belaying From Above There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. I've also seen shunts for self-belaying however I'd prefer a top-rope mechanism. Oct 25, 2021 · A young man has passed away following a 43-foot fall off an autobelay-equipped route at Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym in Sydney, Australia. In the case of this accident, the belayer’s device unclipped from his harness just as the leader fell. Anyone wishing to use an Auto Belay, provide a top rope belay, or sport lead at the Lindseth Climbing Center must pass our Belay Proficiency tests. Auto belays offer many benefits to. even if the cause of the accident was failure to use the auto-belay altogether. Belay Device: Belayer must properly set up an approved brake assisted belay device according to device and harness manufacturers’ specifications. In 2014, a man died while climbing indoors at the Boulder Rock Club in Colorado. 2 Basic Top Rope A third of the incidents were due to belay mistakes[2]. ” We take climbing accidents from our renowned yearly publication "Accidents in North American Climbing" and distill important climbing lessons from them, thanks to expert accident analysis. This feature is beneficial in preventing accidents that can occur due to human error, such as dropping the rope or losing focus while belaying. A spokesperson said An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device used for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. That grade is the upper limit of what I climb. Your two eyes are your only double-checking mechanism. Focus: The route I was on was a 5. “We rarely have incidents happen with top roping, so compared to bouldering, auto belays, and lead climbing, it seems to be one of the safer forms of indoor climbing. Based on both rumor and inference from the messaging, this looks like a fixed-gear failure, and no part of that system should fail catastrophically if maintained correctly. If your belayer primarily topropes indoors, those are almost always heavy and slow/thick ropes. With three locations to call home, each gym is complete with Top Roping, Lead Climbing, Bouldering, Auto Belays, Yoga, Fitness, Slacklining and more. Do autobelays fail? While autobelays are safe if used properly, and current models Jul 2, 2018 · Wild Country released an innovative belay device, the Revo, the first bidirectional belay device with a true auto-locking mechanism. Hit the the top of the wall at 30 ft. We offer rope climbing routes that you can either top-rope, lead climb or in some places, climb solo using an auto-belay. However, I am looking to get I’ve seen outside almost-accidents like this esp if belayer isn't wearing belay gloves, is used to using a grigri, or the rope is new/super slick. Sep 19, 2023 · A climber forgot to clip into an auto-belay, climbed to the top of the route and then sat back, thinking that he was clipped in. The centre released a statement and said the experienced climber suffered a “tragic accident Mar 20, 2025 · Auto-locking belay devices provide an additional layer of safety by automatically engaging the braking mechanism when the rope is released. Oct 27, 2022 · Bryan concurs. The device, which is permanently mounted in a fixed position at the top of the route, winds up a tape or steel wire to which the Vertical Hold offers the best climbing experience for all ages and climbing levels. , trusted the auto belay and decked. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. Most of these auto-belay accidents have been people who don't tie in or don't tie in correctly. Jan 4, 2021 · What Does the Auto-Belay Device Offer? To better understand the value of an auto-belay device, we should briefly highlight a human belayer’s role. One of the main elements in the auto belay set-up that is different from regular top rope climbing, is the absence of a partner. That's what my belay device did the whole time I knew it before the fatal fall and I assume that had something to do with its failure (edited to reframe in answer of original post! thanks for giving me this space to air my grievances!) Being fearful of such accidents, I squeeze check the biner, pull check the auto belay rope and sometimes even jump off at 2 meters or so just to make sure I’m clipped in / the system is working. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. 10. However, if the staff said there was an accident, it suggests they weren't closing the stations regularly enough. Hector Diffut then fell to the ground and suffered serious leg injuries. This guy 100% completely forgot to clip in. Feb 8, 2024 · As far as inanimate objects go, quickdraws are not ideal belayers. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. We send the auto-belay up and set up a rope in the same lane when setting auto-belay routes. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. Peters this week after reports a man had fallen. Kids age 16 and older may belay with top ropes upon passing our top-rope skills check, without adult supervision. My gym has several large bouldering areas. Sep 21, 2023 · Gym and Auto Belay Manufacturer to Pay $6M in Settlement for Auto Belay Accident Vertical World and Perfect Descent manufacture settle with climber who sustained 30-foot fall I've never used an auto belay, but I'd imagine your just clipping into a locking 'biner on the end of the rope. Overall no helmet was a significant portion of all climbing accidents, nearly as much as rap errors. Last month, the Climbing Wall Association (CWA) released updated Auto Belay Guidance in hope of reducing auto belay incidents and improve the culture of responsibility in the sport of climbing. Climbing is inherently dangerous, and you can die in any way possible. When the climber reaches the top, or if they fall, the device automatically catches the climber and slowly lowers them to the ground. Feb 8, 2024 · An informal post on a climbing forum titled "Auto-belay Accident" is the most perfect, concise way to tell a reader, they are going to read about a climbing accident that occurred on an auto-belay. A young man died after falling 43 feet from an autobelay-equipped route at a gym in An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device used for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. With the climber secured to a top rope, the mock lead belayer can practice feeding slack without the pressure of catching the climber if they fall. Obviously, an auto belay won't work if you're not attached to it. The climber is connected to the rope that is connected to the system which automatically raises the rope when the climber ascends, stops if the climber falls and lowers the climber when she or he reaches the top of the climbing wall. Found an auto belay system in your rock climbing gym but not sure how to use it? Need a climbing buddy to belay you but no one was available? Or maybe you are too shy to ask a climber in the gym for some help? Enter the auto belay, a rock climber’s answer to rock climb solo safely (not free solo though). They are noticeable by a long tethered lanyard attached by an industrial carabiner to a triangular and brightly colored mat near the bottom of the wall. Auto-belay accidents can and do occur with nearly all documented accidents resulting from either a failure to clip in or clipping in improperly. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. The location also offers Wacky Walls, which with its 19 auto-belays provides an adventurous option for birthday parties and group events. Photo: masT3rOD /Flickr Kids under 14 require adult assistance and supervision on autobelays. Sep 6, 2023 · Hector Diffut, 26, fell 30 feet from the top of an indoor wall after forgetting to clip into the auto belay. An auto belay system also employs a safety rope; however, no partner is involved. Many states only allow 1-2 years from the date of injury to file a claim, making it crucial to act quickly. Belay: Belayer must demonstrate proficiency in top-rope belaying. Oct 14, 2021 · A climber has died after falling 13 metres while climbing at an indoor facility in Australia. Police established a crime scene and are investigating the circumstances around the fall. The triangle mat usually says Before top roping, lead climbing, or using the auto belay on your own, you must take and pass the required test or orientation first. but like how does that even happen You can look up reports about Auto belay accidents, it happens kind of regularly. Nov 22, 2022 · Though auto belay accidents happen every year, deaths are uncommon. No mention of the brand of device though. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. A description of the proper method of toprope belaying, and a discussion of some of other important considerations in toprope belay. But on the auto-belay it’s up to the climber to double-check his or her system. Paramedics treated the man for serious injuries, but he could not be saved. Then, when you reach the top (or fall), it gently lowers you to the ground. att vclry hfmk bgjotddi pfnq ofdtgqz omaj tbigq rpyepo zdive