Ape index climbers reddit. Yay Torso Factor! The real numbers are harder pin down.

Ape index climbers reddit. Ape index 1 = 1. 85K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. My first V3! Trying to learn how to do more dynamic movements because I know my short body, long torso, and negative ape index will need it. The woman with the negative Ape Index? It looks more like a positive Torso Factor (TM). You might be interested in the post—just search “data analysis” on the subreddit. A 2001 study comparing teenage male and female competition climbers noted that performance differences between the genders could be explained by several factors, one of which was the lower ape index found in the female competition climbers. And yes we are scared of falling. Body - 6’1 183lb climber here with +0 ape index, just got back into climbing in October. Does anybody know why Magnus has bigger muscles compared to your average pro climber? It definitely can be worked around I’m not saying a negative index makes climbing impossible. We put one together and it was really hard to find stats on ape indexes of pro climbers. Cordless and proud. Ape Index 2 - 4 inches. See full list on thewanderingclimber. All the strong climbers I know have large wingspans. Known for redefining the Feb 2, 2024 · Ape Index Rock Climbing is loved and supported by a very large number of members in the climbing community, from Reddit to Facebook. I’d like to watch their technique because im sure it’s different than the shorter/average women and any of the men. After climbing for almost a year and a half I've measured again and my span is 5'10. When I started back climbing after several years off I measured my arm span and it was 5'9. Somebody can correct me if I’m wrong but I’m like 85% Louis isn’t super tall. Which gym would you recommend? I visited Ape index and wasn't too impressed but I have not checked out AZ on the rocks. These were my One of my friends complains about his rib cage being big like this but he is tall, has a positive ape index, and the strongest fingers of anyone I know. It is simply a measure that may or may not have some significance in some sports. Would love to do a similar one but for wingspan length instead! Or even ape index. We are probably equal in skill, but I often have a lot easier time finding beta and access to holds. 90 votes, 49 comments. I guess the main reason is the fact that the heavier you are the harder will be to pull you up of a crimp or any hold in general, then I wonder about how height and arm span affect in the peak performance A subreddit for tall-related topics. Oct 8, 2021 · The ape index is measured because in sports like rock climbing, swimming, boxing, and basketball it’s considered an advantage to have long arms for your height. 258 votes, 41 comments. But which are really the most important? There have been many Two climbers that are of “average” height based on statistics, one is 5’4”, the other is 5’10”, could have drastically different experience on a climb, where a reach that the 5’10” climber can do without thinking, might be very hard for the 5’4” climber. Imo they had to become more complete climber quicker. Specifically the movements and intricacies of specific routes and climbs. com Jul 14, 2023 · Rock climbers call their arm span-to-height ratio their ape index. I think this data only confirms that climbing morphs are variable in elite athletes but high strength-weight ratio is significant when competing against the best. But the big disadvantage is cramp sit down starts on boulder problems. Managed to go from V4s to V5s in 4 months, then I took some time off to study for graduate school entrance exam (MCAT for med school). 75K subscribers in the climbergirls community. 05. that little woman is like a gecko! Wome of the problems are definitely a lot more difficult for her being so short. Women’s Olympic Climbing Qualifier Results - Big surprise in Lead, well set Boulders and eight are through! Oct 18, 2022 · The climbing world has always been interested in the Ape Index for some reason. We are no different, and thus, I and my friend are conducting an extensive study (over a large subset of competition climbers) to identify which factors specifically contribute to enhanced climbing performance in competitive climbing The respondents were 90% male (reddit, woo!), and the single best climber in the smaller female sample also had the lowest ape index (-5 ape index, V8 climber). Anyway, I'm sure there are statisticians or math-savvy climbers here who can make much more of it than we did. I have dreams of ONE DAY being able to do 8a routes and above. for women <160cm do they have negative/neutral ape index or +10cm? Jun 4, 2024 · Some people believe that the greater the ape index, the better climber you will be but does it really offer you an advantage in climbing? Hold on, you're a climbing coach, presumably have seen a lot of athlete data and are well versed in various training methods, and you're asking us what the low hanging fruit is? Totally agree!! My climbing partner is my husband, and he is 6’3” and not a wire-y build. which is obvious. Granted scrunched up moves are more challenging for taller people so there is advantages and disadvantages. tall) and my wingspan is around 65 or 66in. Lucky, I'm short. Indoor bouldering/leading 2. 938/ -10cm. Might take a bit tho, only a month into 17, still 5’8. That one person reversed the correlation for women. I have gotten fairly 'good' apparently for the amount of time I've been climbing, and I'm especially passionate about outdoor sport climbing. Mani the Monkey showing a great comparison of techniques between a climber with a +10 ape index and one with a +1 ape index. There are great advantages to having such a long reach. e. The only unique advantage to negative ape index climbers would be some weird mantles maybe? Of course a negative ape index isn’t what holds most people back but it definitely doesn’t seem useful. /r/tall: reddit from a higher perspective. Me and my +15 ape index are real. From head to toe I’m pretty sure he’s around 5’7 give or take a few inches. 06. Ape Index is a completely accidental number; You could focus on anything else, really. Learn to be comfortable in twisting your body a bit more than other people and get strong fingers! The good thing about being small is that we also have smaller fingers so what is a foothold for others can easily be a tiny crimp for us to 111 votes, 31 comments. In both, men's and women's categories, the best boulderers are taller than the best lead climbers. In March/April I started to notice a plateau and knew I needed to make a change in what I was doing. If someone’s only been climbing a number of months rather than years, ape index is incredibly unlikely to be the reason for their grade limit. In this article, we’ll go over the findings from scientific research studies to determine how important the Ape Index actually is. What is your ape index? Whip out your sticks (measuring) and compare. 11s (a, c, d) pretty easily, yet there are still so many . I'm wondering how much a negative ape index is going to physically What is the advantage of complicating it, and what is the advantage of increasing values for shorter climbers and decreasing it for taller climbers? You argue ape index is mathematically flawed, but where is the flaw? Being unitless is a novelty, especially since ape index is always reported next to height, which does have units. Even guys like Alex Megos that don't seem short are well below the average height of their As a 4'11" climber with a negative ape index and a heavier body weight, I just want to let you know that I hear you! It really is hard sometimes and there's no getting around that. Feb 23, 2020 · Height is often viewed as an advantage in rock climbing, but is that really the case? We take a look and show it's not quite as clear cut as you may think. Is this unheard of? Has anyone else noticed a big increase in your ape index after climbing a while? learning mine really improved my confidence on reachy moves. APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. Come ask questions, post your pictures, whatever you want. Oct 13, 2024 · Countering these studies are other works that have identified the Ape Index as a significant (or potentially significant) factor. Your wingspan to height ratio will not affect your ability to hit full ROM. He struggles with climbs where the best feet are too close to his hands, and feels Phoenix Climbers of Reddit: Az on the Rocks, or Ape Index? I'm in the process of moving to phoenix. I am surrounded by taller climbers who can do things in ways that I cannot. It's a dedicated platform for climbers to find and follow others who match their own height and ape index. I just completed my first cycle of training with lattice. My stats: Height - 67 inches. This was my first taste of structured training and properly working on my weakness. 10d/5. The analysis shows the most important factor in getting better at outdoor rock climbing is going climbing outside (crazy!), followed by several varieties of finger strength and upper-body strength. Similarly, in a later work it was found 1. He climbs like 10 boulders 8B and up or something like that, and makes them all look like piss. That said one could be pickier and ask for ape index, time spent climbing, expertise in bouldering, sport, speed and more. What's your Technique Index? What's your We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I climb 3-4 times a week during school and looking for a new gym to call home in the phoenix area. I try to listen as best I can 1. I believe it did show a correlation between max Vgrade and years climbed/APE. 10as that feel almost impossible (skill issue, ik they’re not impossible impossible). He is a very experienced climber Funny thing is, Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb also used a "tall beta" since they have a 183 and 185 cm ape index, making it easier for them compared to Nalle Hukkataival who was the first to work on the line but did the 3rd repetition. and i'm short (female) to top it off. Learn why and how it affects climbing performance. My partner is around your height but also has -5cm ape index. I am pretty happy with my climbing progress but I definitely complain occasionally about not reaching things. So in this case we call the 5’4” climber - the short climber. Should I use my ape index on Tinder? See a lot of profiles with "six foot plus" listed. Anyone have some favorite climber girls that are 5’10”+? Hi all, I'm a short climber, and I'd like to have a discussion about mentality. Gamma over Beta: I achieved the ultimate ape index and you can too with these 10 simple tricks that doctors hate I am a beginner climber but also a curious guy, and doing a bit of research about best climbers (both male and female) I realised most of them are medium height and not so muscular people. The home of Climbing on reddit. Dec 14, 2021 · For climbing ape index does matter, but not as much as it made out to mean and people definitely use it as an excuse way too much. Posted by u/Vpk-75 - 43 votes and 3 comments Ironically enough I don’t think Louis Parkinson (the climber in the gif) is actually that tall. For example, swimmers, fighters (boxing/MMA), rock climbers, powerlifters (in the deadlift), and basketball players benefit from long arms (+ to their ape indexes). At least at an advanced/pro level that is true, for a beginner/intermediate ape index is always good for climbing There are some outliers like Jan Hojer (187 with +10cm) but the worlds best are rather more like Adam Ondra who even has a NEGATIVE ape index of -1cm I go to the Phoenix Rock Gym in Tempe almost every weekend, this weekend I am going to be trying out Ape Index. 5 inches longer than my height. As food for thought, at basically every point in climbing (except maybe now) the best climbers have had long ape indexes and/or were tall, going back into the stonemaster era, the jerry moffat/ben moon/wolfgang gullich, fred nicole, sharma, adam ondra. i generally lank my way up harder climbs. 5 years at around V5/V6 and AUS 21 (5. There are professional climbers that have neutral ape index and also climbers that have very positive measurements. This isn't about finding climbing partners; it's about discovering what climbers with your body dimensions are achieving in bouldering, board climbing, sport climbing, and trad climbing. hangboarding has a similar influence on prediction to climbing frequency and it is significant influence arm span/ape index does not really matter (this is why I ended up without this feature in nn model) BMI is trash, neural network was able to find much better correlation between height and weight How I feel as a 5'9" climber with a negative ape-index and climbing with people 6 feet or taller. EDIT: Whoa, didn't read Hey! (Relatively) New climber here! I know pro women tend to be on the shorter-average end of height, but I’m 6 feet tall and can’t really find info on any other tall girl climbers. Thoughts? 632 votes, 26 comments. He climbing style is incredible to watch. 1. I'm only 5'6 so every inch is a big gain for me. Does anybody else have a terrible ape index? I love climbing, but I definitely don't have the body for it. (Example photo) Been reading through many threads saying muscle exertion is related to the cross-sectional area of the muscle. I measured it in several ways, got the same number every time. im 6'2 with a +4" ape index. : r/climbergirls Scan this QR code to download the app now     TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity POPULAR POSTS Go to climbergirls r/climbergirls r/climbergirls A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies What would be more interesting is ape index vs max grade. Not overweight at all, but his body simply is not slender, even when he was seriously into cycling before he started climbing. I'm 5'4 with a +8 ape index. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Jul 25, 2024 · Height 5′ 10″ Age 46 Ape Index +0 in, +0cm Nationality American Tommy Caldwell is one of the most accomplished and inspiring rock climbers in history. May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. Therefore it would only be applicable in this scenario if two climbers had the same height. The man has an impressive ape index, but I swear his center of gravity is at his sternum. Ape index is probably a more important consideration as that is just strictly reach. Arm Span - 71 inches. Locked post. V1 check! V2 loading😎 📍Ape Index Climbing Gym in Peoria, AZ comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Climbing time in months is a bit weird. Yay Torso Factor! The real numbers are harder pin down. As a result, progress isn't as simple for her, and this can cause her a lot of frustration. I'm male, 157 cm (5'2), 53 kg (117 lbs). We were able to hunt some down (Lynn Hill, Kai Lightner, Tommy Caldwell, etc) on the interwebs but legitimately can’t find Alex Honnold’s so he’s noticeably absent on our wall. Comparing a 5ft 7 person and a 6ft 3 person in their ape index would achieve nothing since they're two entirely different heights. 5 percent stronger. If we climb the same route and there is a move I can reach easy they need to get their leg high, smear the wall, push the hip towards the high foot and then lock the arm and finally reach for the hold. I've been climbing for 4 years now and use to just go into the gym to project and saw consistent results. Nov 2, 2023 · Some believe that a positive ape index gives you a clear advantage over other climbers while others claim that it makes no difference and you just need to adapt your climbing. I also want to get into outdoor climbing but am waiting until I meet people to climb with before I invest in shoes, a harness, caribiners, grigri and rope i. Share Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment toastibot • Mar 20, 2017 · Curious how your ape index and other factors stack up against the crushers that have sent Southern Smoke in the Red River Gorge? The problem with all the discussions of height and ape index are that the "oh I can't reach that" is such an obvious problem to novice climbers, so they inevitably jump to the conclusion of "if only I was a little bit taller" without considering all the invisible repercussions. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Are there some specific exercises or We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. New comments cannot be posted. From there, we’ll look into the ape indices of the most famous rock climbers to see if there’s a positive 140 votes, 11 comments. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. we all have our own individual styles but just super impressed with her. This movie is perhaps my favorite climbing movie. Edit: Forgot the link facepalm From what I can tell, Ondra isn't obsessed with training or being stronger, he's obsessed with rock climbing. , meaning my "gorilla index" is a comically high 1. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. I find that foot hand matching/spanny powerful moves are terribly difficult for me compared to when I am climbing with my friends who are a little taller with positive or neutral ape indexes. Here’s some insight from a newcomer to the gym, “Amazing experience! Rock climbing is a complex sport and there are clearly many factors that impact our performance. Having a + to your ape index is not indicative of stunted growth. System Specs: 5'10, 145 lbs, +1 inch ape index. Penguin, Orang-Utan or Average Joe - which one are you? Calculate your ape index and discover where your strengths and weaknesses in climbing lie. I have an Ape Index of 5. I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. The training is the same. Can I say as a relatively new tall climber, I feel as though shorter climbers generally get a better experience while bouldering. If anything it's an advantage on the wall which is all that matters anyways, so I don't see an issue. I've always liked this video for showing all the competitors stacked up against each other in terms of height, weight and ape index. It's an hour of him basically crushing everything. Anyway I just measured mine, I'm 5'2 (62in. I max 30-40 pullups, depending on the day, or +135lb pullup. im 4'10, with a 5'2 wingspan (aka a +4 ape index), so those extra couple inches really matter! now im more likely to try that dyno, bc i may be way shorter than avg but my arms arent actually much shorter than my partners are! no more excuse 😅 that said, if my arms had been shorter than avg id really be sweating lol. If you can't do a pull up, do negatives and assisted work/lat pull downs until you can. It seems to very rarely cause problems for him but I think I saw improvements when he started stretching his hips more, played hands free climbing games with me, and improved his shoulder strength/ stability. [6] Hey y'all so I'm a pretty short climber and have a negative ape index (5'5,-2). Which are the most important, and what can we train to improve our sport climbing or bouldering grade? Small climbers will complain that it is height, heavy climbers, weight. Was 5’7 with a 6’ 5 wingspan last year Reply reply More replies ishabowa • Try out fight sports or rock climbing Reply reply ActivityHoliday • Maybe in the future, if swimming doesn’t work out Reply reply ishabowa • Reply reply ActivityHoliday • Reply reply ishabowa • Yeah you’d be great at armwrestling then Reply reply Dai Koyamda is 165cm/5'5". The best male climbers are on average 4 cm shorter than their non-climbing peers and female climbers around 1 cm shorter. How to Calculate Your Ape Index There are two ways to calculate your ape index: divide your wingspan by your height or subtract your height from your wingspan. 395K subscribers in the bouldering community. The respondents were 90% male (reddit, woo!), and the single best climber in the smaller female sample also had the lowest ape index (-5 ape index, V8 climber). For instance routes usually have been set up with an average height in mind. Sounds like something a jealous, negative ape indexer would say. I'm by no means tall (5'6") but most of the time it isn't a limiting factor while climbing. 5 - that means my wingspan is 5. Plug your results HERE. Is it though? My impression of an ape index is a radio between the arms and legs (to put it in its most basic form). However, if you were part of Is the length of ones toe of any importance in calculating the ape index ? And is it considered aid having one this large ? Please advise. Been climbing about 2. Last time I was at the gym, I got some some . Start by saying I’m 5’2, negative ape index. Jan 9, 2015 · Rock climber? Swimmer? Normal person who is curious about your body proportions? Find out your ape index. Looking even at macro scale things, or ape-index, can even be misleading-- they may be drowned out by all the other variables working in very complex ways (ever seen a complex pendulum acting under chaotic regimes? Jun 4, 2025 · The ape index climbing is a way climbers measure their wingspan relatively to their body. I did the 12 week boulder plan. 5yrs, mixed consistency, started hangboarding a month ago. Being small has a lot of advantages in climbing (light, keeping the body close to the wall) and it's no coincidence that the vast majority of pro climbers (male and female) are below average height - with some exceptions of course, such as Adam Ondra. The only thing is his ape index is +5 and he’s absurdly strong. But on the other end, I’ve also watched taller and far better climbers of average height struggle with moves that honestly to me seem kinda impossible if Mar 14, 2023 · Tl;dr: This analysis shows that weight, gender, height, and ape index do not play a significant role in a person’s maximum sport climbing grade or bouldering grade. That's normal, we all have different bodies, skills, strengths, weaknesses Just watching the ISFC world championships. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. Would be interesting to see. Apr 25, 2024 · Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? I recently measured my ape index for the first time, it's -5cms, pretty negative. As if this untrainable factor could make or break a climber’s career. A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies As a climber with long arms (+12cm/5inches ape index) and legs, I’ve just finished a long term project which was completely my anti-style: a wide compression boulder revolving around a tight and uncomfortable heel hook. at my height As the title says, my partner is rather short, and her ape index doesn't help. Reply beanis-man- • Additional comment actions legs are aid Reply PoorLittleLamb • Additional comment actions As a Gumby with a -2 APE due to stork legs I can confirm it is only aid for feet first beta Reply lonely_dodo • fa: the pink one in the corner • Additional comment actions pfft that's 1 inch in my operating room Reply ppablo787 • Additional comment actions 827 votes, 196 comments. i guess im heavier. Get good at being flexible and doing dynamic movements! I don't have a negative ape index but I'm about 5 to 5ft1 as well, i think (155cm to be exact, haha). Others point to flawless technique and mental strength. . Just wanted to express my admiration, shes only 5ft! Found some Everyone talks about ape index, but is leg length relative to height important when climbing? I never noticed leg length at all until talking to some people and we realized that we have drastically different leg lengths - like a 6 inch range when we're within an inch of one another in height. It's a no nonsense, with little story/dialogue, and all climbs are shown with a single continuous shot. From time to time, we all wonder about the impact of height, weight, or arm span on our climbing performance. A 2001 study comparing teenage male and female rock climbers noted that performance differences between the genders could be explained by a number of factors, one of which was the lower Ape Index found in the female climbers. All types of bodies exist. I'm 162cm tall, but my wingspan is only 152cm, so my ape index is 0. I started climbing on the Moonboard and some weaknesses quickly revealed itself. Her torso is just long compared to her legs and arms, giving her more reach than a person with a neutral Torso Factor (TM). There have been some statistical analysis done on random data redditors filled out in this subreddit which IIRC, showed no correlation between max Vgrade and height. 11a depending on which conversion chart you use). But does it matter? Click to find out. lprb vioo eapakq auopad kvkp hmbunze gzsaw hmqrfr jozkf hkwjf