Dmm brass offsets vs peanuts size. 00mm wire into a swaged head.
Dmm brass offsets vs peanuts size. DMM walnuts size 1-11 (plus torque nuts 1-4), doubled up with DMM peanuts and offsets (plus DMM micro-nuts size 00-0. I've got sets of all 3 - Peanuts, Micro Wallnuts and HB Offsets. The breaking strength is significantly higher in DMM have brought an old favourite back to the market, Alloy Offsets. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. If the price difference doesn't bother you, go for the brass. I would go for DMM Peanuts for the smaller sizes and DMM Alloys for the larger. The Offsets stay on my rack pretty much permanently and but the others are only used on rare occasions, including when climbing on slate. Based on our research and testing, we think the DMM Alloy Offsets is the best Climbing Nuts and Stoppers available in 2025. Their large surface area helps dissipate forces, making them suitable for protecting fragile rock. In reply to anon60521: I have used pretty much everything except the relatively new BD Offsets over many years and found that the DMM Brass Offsets are the best and most useful option by far. Specifically thinking about free climbing and understand the placements would easily > I'd wait for the DMM/HB brass offsets. DMM Alloy Offsets 7-11 are about the same sizes (and colours) as Wallnuts 4-8, I don't have any Peenuts so I can't tell you if that leaves a gap, but maybe that information will help you work it out. 1 Big Lee 31 Mar 2015 Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. In Choosing Climbing Nuts, Paul offers some useful advice on what type to choose and how to rack them. Lots of people rave about the brass offsets which essentially do the same thing and say that they are much better and fit more placements. 1 Big Lee 31 Mar 2015 Offset shape allows for multiple placement options and enables the stoppers to fit in tricky cracks and old pin scars Investment cast from silicon bronze that provides both good bite into rock and good resistance to shear forces Nut heads are then silver soldered onto stainless-steel wire Updated from the original HB n Small but mighty. The brass offsets have a slightly larger angle of taper which, for me, doesn't seem to find as many placements. It's not a perfect system - you can argue that the less the brass offsets are better and stronger, just buy the larger ones if you are not interested in the smaller ones, they continue down the sizes incrementally from the alloy offsets. Currently have WC rocks down to a size 1. However I got rid of sizes 1 & 2 and I also have a full set of Brass Offsets but I don't find they mix well with DMM Wallnuts. i have a set of dmm peenuts (sizes 1-5) and looking at getting some bigger offsets. The smaller sizes of the standard set, gold -red, find a lot of use. And Dmm brass offsets 2-4. Very similar but better in every respect with the While these two models are great for medium-to-large sizes pieces, we absolutely love DMM Peenut for those smaller sizes that are useful in trad climbing. Small but remarkably strong. They are weaker than brassies but a different shape. It seems that the DMM alloy offsets size 7-11 are approx size 4-8 in terms of their equivalent rock / wallnut size. But its arguable that the peanuts are more durable (they withstand being stripped from placements aggressively a bit A handy substitute to the more expensive DMM HB Brass Offsets in the larger sizes. Simey et al - for araps, would you recommend RPs over the new DMM brass offsets? I have bucket loads of normal nuts, never owned RPs or offsets though. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. WC rocks 1-10 DMM peanuts 1 - 5 BD swedge 1-3 It seems that the DMM alloy offsets size 7-11 are approx size 4-8 in terms of their equivalent rock / wallnut size. The alloy offsets are very versatile due to the cut outs on the sides. Peanuts bite really well and the angle of taper seems to suit rhyolite cracks. I have several other options including the much-loved DMM offsets in the larger sizes. The colour DMM walnuts size 1-11 (plus torque nuts 1-4), doubled up with DMM peanuts and offsets (plus DMM micro-nuts size 00-0. if i got a set of the dmm alloy offsets which only seem to come in sizes 7 - 11, does this mean i will have a gap in sizes? - seems a bit odd they dont do a size 6?!?! Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 1 oz A Wallnut's curving taper fits a wide variety of cracks in different rock types. 00mm wire in a miniscule head and achieve 5kn. 75). Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allowing a thicker wire to be used and increasing overall strength. The Alloy Offsets have had a few tweaks however – they’re Sam Skovgaard wrote: I have both peenuts and DMM brass offsets. Now the brass offsets come in from size 0-6, which sizes from the brass offsets clash with the peenuts? A peenut 5 is similar to a rock 3 so do my peenuts fit nicely under the alloy Micro protection for small offset cracks Peenuts have the same asymmetrical taper as Alloy Offsets, allowing them to protect flared and irregular shaped cracks more effectively than symmetrical nuts. Very similar but better in every respect with the exception of a very specific type of pin scar. The colour coded swage Looking to bulk up the micro half of my rack for a trip to Pembroke soon. Title says it really. With the Brass Offsets and Peanuts I'm not short of offset options in the smaller sizes so I found the smallest Superlights didn't add much so I didn't hang onto them. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The colour I often find the larger 2 sizes more useful than the smallest regular nuts as well. Although they fit pretty well into flared, bottoming cracks, I would make two changes so they fit better. Larger Peanuts would be my initial choice over similar sized Brass Offsets, but there was a previous recent discussion DMM passive protection and active protection for trad climbing, and ice and winter protection. Why We Like The DMM HB Brass Offset Set As we go up in grade, the placements get fewer, so we add the DMM HB Brass Offset Set to our rack to utilize the route's smaller, irregular cracks. Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. e what sizes, how many ill need etc i was thinking: - set of 1-4 DMM micro wallnuts - set of 1-5 DMM peanuts - couple of brass offsets what are your opinions on this, advice please higherclimbingwales 22 Jun 2010 Small but mighty. Price and other details may vary based on product size and color. A little difficult to tell the IMPs and brass offsets apart without close inspection so some minor thought with racking is required. simey 17-Dec-2009 11:44:38 AM Small but mighty. 25-11, plus the 2 biggest torque nuts and Mr-Cowdrey 22 Jun 2010 im looking at getting a set of micro wires, but im not sure what to buy i. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The nuts I use most, though, are the large aluminium offsets with DMM peanuts (the anodised little offset things) for the smaller sizes rather than the brassies. Less finicky, less direction-dependent placement, and they often seat I would recommend DMM Peanuts over DMM Brass Offsets particularly if you climb on granite more than desert sandstone. This is where the IMPS/Brass Offsets/RP's win in sizes 1+ 2 - on an IMP/RP size 2 you can get a 2. 00mm wire into a swaged head. All DMM's passive protection is colour coded so that units with the same colour on the head or swage are similar in size. The best advice we have is to buy the set, 7-11, see if this is a problem for you and then consider swapping out the 7 for a similarly sized micro offset in a softer alloy from DMM or BD. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist deforming The brass offsets were essentially unchanged apart from the removal of the plastic sheath around the wire loop. They may work out as being very effective alongside some alloy offsets instead of brass offsets. A swaged nut of the same size (Wallnut 0) has to use 1. Seconded. The head's asymmetrical This is where the IMPS/Brass Offsets/RP's win in sizes 1+ 2 - on an IMP/RP size 2 you can get a 2. A full set of them are the only microwires currently on my rack. micro nuts, offset nuts, brass nuts, cams and more. Weight: 9. The offset head shape is great for awkward shaped cracks, they give more security than a square cut nut in outward flared cracks and provide super satisfying placements in inward Small but mighty. One of my trad friends says his BD #1 stopper is his most useful one. Big Wall and Aid Climbing Post a Reply to "#6 offset nuts for The Nose" Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. If you only buy the offsets you will be lacking in very large (not the end of the world), and smaller sizes (definitely not ideal). He finds them lacking in one Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. That said, the offsets don't have a large enough size range. for when the shit really hits the fan, I have the smallest 4 or so BD Micro nutsand for aid climbing, I have DMM offset brass. That gives me a full double set of static protection from size 0. Now the brass offsets come in from size 0-6, which sizes from the brass offsets clash with the peenuts? A peenut 5 is similar to a rock 3 so do my peenuts fit nicely under the alloy offsets?? The rest of my rack is DMM - Wallnuts, Brass & Alloy offsets and Peanuts. 25-11, plus the 2 biggest torque nuts and 23 results for "dmm offset nuts" Results Check each product page for other buying options. In reply to Pesda potato: I would go for DMM Peanuts for the smaller sizes and DMM Alloys for the larger. But its arguable that the peanuts are more durable (they withstand being stripped from placements aggressively a bit better), if a little weaker in the smallest size. However jump up slightly in head size and you can get 2. The DMM offsets are only 5 nuts. In reply to petellis: "The sizes run into the alloy offsets to nicely make up a full set" Not sure I get what you mean there, the brass offsets run to one size smaller than the smallest alloy and smaller than the smallest peanut. Looking to bulk up the micro half of my rack for a trip to Pembroke soon. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. I would say a nice compromise might be getting a partial set of smaller sized standard nuts and a full set of the offsets. I've also got a set of brass offsets and find them equally useful depending on the crack. The colour . Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. Product Description As climbs become harder, the need to make the most of all available protection increases. They are on a separate krab and I only carry them occasionally when I think I might need additional small or micro gear. I found the curved taper of the wallnuts I already had to be preferable over the offset shape at those medium sizes. Colours are co-ordinated across passive and active protection, for quick selection of alternatives if your first choice doesn't fit. - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. The Micro Wallnuts work pretty well on slate but aren't as good on most other rock types. You can get a confidence inspiring amount of surface contact in a lot of semi flaring placements that are common to that kind of climbing. Climbing Nuts DMM Wallnut Set #7-11 NoColour Brass Offsets Vs Peanuts DMM Wallnuts - Assorted 7 - 11 Wallnuts and Offsets have a groove machined into their faces, allowing them to sit better in irregular placements and on highly featured rock. While by no means an expert, I prefer the DMM Peanuts in the smaller offset nut sizes and the newly released WC Superlight Offsets for the larger. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist deforming and pulling through. The colour Sold individually or in sets. We really hope you find it useful. Having these HB Brass Offsets on your rack gives you more options. I often find the larger 2 sizes more useful than the smallest regular nuts as well. That setup has worked great for me from Red Rock sandstone to columnar basalt to I would recommend DMM Peanuts over DMM Brass Offsets particularly if you climb on granite more than desert sandstone. Shop for climbing micro nuts Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The sizes run into the alloy offsets to nicely make up a full set. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. The colour coded swage In reply to Malt_Loaf: They are worthwhile. These little nuts have relatively thick wires and will take a beating. 5mm wire and the strength drops to 2+kN. For free climbing, the DMM Peanuts are awesome. DMM Brass Offsets sizes 3-6 and Alloy Offset sizes 7 (gold), 8 (blue), 9 (red) are superb and the ideal option but expensive especially if bought individually. The rest of my rack is DMM - Wallnuts, Brass & Alloy offsets and Peanuts. The DMM protection range is colour coded for quick and easy size selection. The Peenuts are designed to be complementary to the Alloy Small but mighty. > I'd wait for the DMM/HB brass offsets. We have great value for money sets as well as individual wires, not to mention our selection of micro offsets too. The colour Small but mighty. Toby Archer, a big fan of the old HB Offsets, goes out cragging and takes them through their paces. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small, flared cracks, There are various types of micro nuts available in many different brands, colours, shapes and sizes. DMM Peanuts are also good and as a set cover many of the smaller sizes you'll probably need. qmwlmrdeiunotwhwhvhdvshjvhfbwypourxixzpwppetbdinledwje